Skip to main content

September 23 - The Towns of Turkey

Exploring the Bozburun Peninsula - or - Driving More Winding Mountain Roads with NO Guardrails

Right off the bat, I must confess that I have not driven even one kilometer in any country, except of course if you count being a back seat driver, then I have driven many. Although the roads in Turkey probably have some of the best signage and are generally new and wide and easy, out here on the Peninsula they seem about 1 1/2 cars wide though two cars have to pass, one usually being a truck. But Steve, not only an intrepid driver, never complains about the roads or the routes or the wrong turns. 
The navigation gets a bit difficult, as most roads and houses look the same, but the real problem is that the left turn you took this morning at the donkey.....well, the donkey has moved up the road to where the goats were and the goats have chased the chickens and the sheep herder has taken his sheep down the hill to the water, so no wonder you missed your turn. And although that is not really why we miss turns, we do pass all those animals and more everyday on our forays to new towns.

Yesterday, we drove to Selimiye,  a much bigger town than Sogut. There are hotels and apartments to rent on the water, a marina and lots of boats. We camped out at a waterfront restaurant's private jetty, renting two sunbeds, one umbrella and the use of one very slippery wooden ladder down into the sea for swimming for 20 TL ($10 USD ) for the day.  And by the way, if I have failed to mention this before, the weather is picture perfect every single day - 29 or 30C, sun, no clouds and no humidity. 


Since Selimiye is a long 35 minute drive for us novices (it should take 20), our plan was to have a very late lunch around 5 P.M. (because we are still too young to say early bird dinner and there are no special prices) on the water and get back to our place before dark. We easily found the restaurant, Sardunya,
and got a seaside table, a shepherd salad, grilled haloumi cheese, grilled octopus and grilled shrimp, heads on. 



There were sailboats and yachts pulling in for dinner with chic looking Europeans and Turks embarking. Just as we were finishing up, a boat pulled out way too fast and before we knew it the wake came right over the dock and soaked my feet, Steve's feet and splashed up onto the table and wiped out our camera. We're pretty sure they'll be no more photos this week and I guess it is THE sign it really is time to return home.

( .....I'll struggle by using the mini I-pad these last few days...SS )

Today we headed off to Bozburun, another charmer of a small marina town, where we hoped we could find not only a Post Office, but a P.O. that took packages - after all we are in a place where not every town even has an ATM. Lucky again, after the worker made a couple of phone calls they took our package and although our reciept looks very unofficial, they are supposed to send it all the way home for only $40.00.

Next errand to do......another haircut for Steve.
We found a barber easily and he spoke a bit of English. Steve, thinking that in Turkey 'the barbershop' might be one of those men only domains, sent me out shopping where I discovered a tiny shop with a tailor cutting and sewing and ironing great looking shirts and cotton caftans.
I'm not sure you will ever get to see Steve in his blue and white striped one, but I know it will be his new comfy loungewear in Santa Fe. 





....If you come into the harbor at Bozburun, wouldn't you love to be greeted by the ICE CREAM BOAT!!??!!



Back to another 'ho hum' day at the pool watching the islands across the sea turn blue as the sun heads west and we dip into the pool, then the jacuzzi and back to the sunbeds....what a life! We eat fruit and fresh dried figs and delicious Turkish cheese and the best black olives (I usually only eat green ones) I have ever tasted. We listen to podcasts under the umbrella (me) or basking in the sun (Steve). And while we do all this, there is complete quiet and serenity and then we hear the muezzins calling everyone to prayer - the sound of Turkey for me. 

We head to 'Manzara' for dinner,
not down at the water but at the top of the hill where we can watch the sunset (not nearly as spectacular as last night when I failed to take photos) and fill ourselves again with meze and grilled octopus and fresh fish that we are still not tired of.  

Above - Meze of local fish, raw, cerviche style


Grilled eggplant in pepper, garlic and tomato

We drive home and when we get out of the car, in the pitch black, we cannot believe the night sky. We see thousands of stars and we can see the Milky Way, perfectly, which I am not sure I have ever seen, let alone like this.  There are so many stars the sky almost looks white.  It is hard to go in but when we do, a surprise. We find that the few photos we took today with our water-logged camera, though the screen is now completely black,  turned out and loaded on the iPad.  Gee, how lucky can you get? 

( Stock NASA photo...my camera is dead, and was never this good anyway.....Steve)

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

August 3. West, East or Central??? Where the Hell is Vienna?

 West, East or Central??? Where the Hell is Vienna? Aside from the fact that it is approximately three hours and fifteen minutes from Cesky Krumlov, Vienna, it turns out, is technically in Western Europe, even though Austria makes its appearance in Rick Steve's Eastern European book and people who live in Czech, Poland, Hungary and Slovakia are Central European.  In fact, it is almost offensive to call them or their country Eastern European, as that is clearly only for the old Soviet bloc.  We made a few stops along the way, taking the scenic way past a magnificent very long lake, and over beautiful mountains with rolling fields of crop and grain, not quite the Sound of Music Austria, but not too far off. Crossing from Czech to Austria in the EU of today entailed no more than driving past the old vacant border patrol building.  We checked into our hotel, just a couple blocks outside the busy Ringstrasse and next to the Rathaus, and sank into our air conditioned room,...

#118 - It’s Sunny and HOT in Paree

Dinner last night was just a ten minute walk, following the Marci school of city touring which says : “run around all day, anywhere you want, take public transit everywhere, but once you are back at your hotel, be it 6 or 7 or even 8pm, just walk close by for dinner”. I always pick the neighborhood to stay in first and then I pick my hotel. I don’t mind running all day, but once the day is done I want to be near lots of good places to eat dinner.  Astier, a bistro in the 11th, qualified on the location and the Good Eats. Again, the food sounded simple, like my beet gaspacho with crunchy veggies. The deep purple was rich looking and the flavors layered and fresh.  Steve started with the pickled herring and I think he was quite surprised when the waiter delivered and LEFT on the table a  quite large glazed terracotta container of herring, a serving spoon and fork, a bowl of small potatoes and a basket of bread.  Then he left. Clearly this was an all-you-can-...

A Beer Primer, Brewery to Baths

A Beer Primer, Brewery to Baths In Czech, beer is king. It is the breakfast of champions, the lunchtime  liquid, the afternoon aperitif, the dinner drink and evening bar crawl beverage. There is dark and light and everything in between. You can order normal, at 10% alcohol, or 11 or 12 for a faster buzz. It can be smooth or bitter, yellow, brown or red. It goes with dumplings, and pork knee, and pickled sausages and apple strudel. It fills you up and always makes you need the WC. And so, although we are not beer aficionados, and I am not even a beer fan, we picked Plzen, CZ as the first stop on our 15 day road trip through Eastern Europe (or Central Europe to those who live there according to a Czech acquaintance). It was close to Prague so even if we got lost, the day would not be lost.  The morning's challenges would be getting to the rental car place in town by metro, finding our way back to the apartment in our Skoda, the largest produced Czech car,  and navigating ou...