#29 - What is a fleece, a scarf and some rain called?

      What is a fleece, a scarf and some rain called?

          Summer in Queenstown, NZ !  Oh no! 

Before I launch into this blog entry, be forewarned, it will likely be shorter and less descriptive than planned, because last night after I wrote the entire blog in my Notes app, it got lost as I copied and pasted it into Blogger. Too tired to redo it at 10 pm, I will attempt to recreate it this morning as I sit in our lovely hotel looking at the lake and at least some blue skies. 

Upon our landing at Queenstown airport on Monday, we were so in awe of the scenery during the drive to Te Anua, we simply looked instead of snapping away and capturing the Remarkables and the landscape. Foolish us thinking we could do it on the return trip to blog and share. And so below, some highlights of the last few days we forgot to share.

It only takes two hours to drive from Q-town to TeAnua but the scenery changes dramatically as you go. The drive for the first 40 or so kilometers is through the Remarkables, a magnificent chain of mountains, tall and craggy, snow capped and green, rising dramatically from the road to the sky. As they and the winding road give way to flatter ground and farm country, here come the sheep. The ratio quoted of sheep to people in New Zealand is almost 6:1 but I am thinking that here in South Fiordland it is more like 10:1, at least. 

Passing by sheep station after sheep station, as they use the more British or South African word for ranch, the fields of lucerne are verdant green and the sheep, simply wooly white dots on the landscape. Somehow the expectation is of wall to wall sheep, like our terrible chicken farms at home, but no, like the country, it is natural...just grazing and eating, plenty of room to roam. 

Next up the red deer farms; that's right, they raise deer on a farm. Although every four legged animal was brought to New Zealand, not one was indigenous, and the deer population got out of hand enough to cull, they now actually raise these red deer for venison. It is a bit odd to see but delicious to eat- soft and lean like buffalo or filet mignon. 

And then we start to see large clumps of reddish grasses waving in the wind. Here and there, then becoming more dense until finally they fill entire hills and fields of the Red Tussock Reserve. With the sun shining and the breeze blowing, it is like a dance. And as usual, the New Zealanders have decided to preserve this area so it will always be here, untouched, for all to enjoy.

Last but not least, while we are speaking of nature's beauty, I must revert to our trip to Milford and the glacier fed streams and rivers along the way. I have many times on our blog described beautiful deep turquoise waters or navy oceans but these icy waters were a color I have never seen before except in an aquamarine gemstone.

The crystal blue color must come from the clearness of the water tumbling over the gray blue rocky bottoms but it shimmers just like a gorgeous aquamarine ring. And the taste is sweet and delicious, as you bend and scoop a handful to slurp.

                                                                     

Fast forward to Wednesday as we awake to rain and packing and getting on the road. But first a stop in Te Anua to watch a film about the South Fiordland National Park. Conceived and realized by a helicopter pilot, this film takes to the sky to provide a Birdseye view of much of the three million preserved acres of this park. The only access is at either Milford or Doubtful Sound and so almost everything here had never been seen by humans on the ground. For thirty two minutes you sit spellbound by the beauty as it takes you from scenes of moss covered glens reminiscent of Lord of the Rings to dives down 2000 meter waterfalls and all in a special 52 seat theater built specially for this project.

The seats are comfy and at least 36" wide, you can have coffee or wine while you watch and it has the best sound system in the country, they claim, and a fantastic score to boot.  (http://www.fiordlandcinema.co.nz )

Once on the road, we figured out that those small cafes in the one horse towns are indeed opened from 8 to 4, we were just too late last time. So, of course, we made a stop at the Five Rivers Cafe for a light lunch, a small cafe cum art gallery highly recommended by friends surprised by the sophistication and bagels in the middle of nowhere. We sat by the warmth of the wood stove ( yep it is pretty cold today...8C = 46 degrees F)  with coffee and quiche but no bagels in sight! Sorry Babs!

Arriving in Queenstown, or any city, in the rain is always less than optimal but our hotel and accommodations were lovely, as well as the upgrade to the top floor and lakefront, quite unexpected.

We unpacked (it is the two night rule) and relaxed, charged up phone and iPads, and sent our best thoughts for the rain to end as we kept watch out the big picture windows.

Now when you are home and researching where to go, where to stay and how it all fits together, sometimes maps or descriptions can be quite deceiving. Queenstown looked quite small on the map, not too many streets, very walkable. So, we were quite surprised to find that our hotel was indeed a forty-five minute walk along a windy chilly lakefront to get to the heart of town. But no fear, our hotel had a shuttle every hour and with a booking for the five o'clock run, some restaurant recommendations from the handsome concierge and as many layers as we could put on without looking like the Pillsbury Dough boy, we headed into the city. 

There were a few peaks of sun, a bit of blue sky, some drizzles and it stayed cold but we explored as best we could. I was sure this would be a good shopping destination for some NZ woollies and such. Walking around we passed the Louis Vuitton store, replete with Japanese tourists buying as much as they could...a hallmark of everyplace you travel today. There were NZ made stores with sweaters and possum socks and some ok pottery but the prices were incredibly high...after all wool is wool right? Yes this was soft merino and yes, it was mixed with silk or possum, but $750 NZD for a simple Vee-neck sweater in a nice color? Even though Barrack Obama wore one on Thanksgiving (picture to prove it on the shelf) I was glad I was not only allergic to wool, but still having too many hot flashes to consider the splurge. 

We settled into BlueKanu for dinner, a Polynesian fusion place and spent the next hour and a half delighted by the interesting tastes, allowing ourselves to be guided by our waitress on the best the house had to offer. 

We started with a small dish of homemade rice crackers to be slathered with spicy sorbet and topped with a local fish ceviche in coconut milk.  I may go back just for seconds on those crackers, well no, the whole dish!

Next up crispy pork belly Kimchi bun, and since we split one, it was only two bites each to dip in the amazing sauce and devour.

We followed with a Fish salad comprised of a local delicacy, Paua. This is very like abalone but with a more mushroom like texture and a slightly umami taste. Combined with lots of herbs, edamame and other stuff, it was a real treat.

And finally, a crispy whole local fish, again with the perfect accoutrements- roasted lemons, pickled ginger, radish slices, cilantro, special dipping sauce and a cup of very crispy, very shoestring taro chips. Put all in one bite it was spicy and crispy and sweet and we finished it all!

Back to our new home at The Rees, tucked in for the night, no stars to see out the window, more rain as we watched a movie in bed, and sweet dreams of blue skies in the morning.