We actually had a quick and easy drive into Auckland with no wrong turns, right to our hotel. We drove in on a four lane each way road, which I believe may be the only one that big in the entire country. The Sky Grand was indeed grand, compared to our digs in Rotorua and especially because this lovely 18th floor room with a modern bath and floor to ceiling windows actually cost a dollar a night LESS than the Rotorua piece of crap. We are finding this all over Australia and New Zealand...the bigger the town or city, the more luxurious and cheaper the accommodations are. In the small, middle of nowhere places, rates are high and hotels are clean and adequate at best. Guess that goes along with my overall impression that the best of NZ is in the big tourist spots.
Steve dropped the car off to Hertz while I met with the concierge to line up what to do and where to eat. Imagine my surprise to learn that there were not an over abundance of city attractions, there were virtually no events happening and almost all of the better restaurants were on vacation....not for a day or two, or even a week or two, but many closed from Xmas to January 19 or 20. With limited fine dining options, most were already fully booked, even the lunch recommendation from our NZ sisters at the spa.
Undeterred, we headed out for a nice walk to the harbor and the Wynyard area on the water. Cruising along the marina, it became clear what Auckland is all about - Sailing. We have never seen so many magnificent, Donald Trump huge yachts and sailboats in one place, masts swaying in the breeze, three stories tall.
The only problem with this glorious marina was, there was a Holland cruise ship in port that clearly had just disgorged thousands of passengers also vying for a meal along the harbor. The Wynard area has big converted wharf spaces full of nothing but restaurants and we were headed to Baduzzi, a little tucked behind all that, the bistro of a big Auckland chef. Well, we were headed there until we saw the dark space and locked doors. Unfortunately, unlike the others, their website hadn't said anything about closing.
We perused the other places, all a bit better than chain places, but overwhelmed by the crowds and likely the lack of staff on holiday. That combo is lethal for Steve- all it means to him is waiting for a table with bad service and ho-hum food. We were outta there.
Heading back to the CBD we spotted,in Viaduct Harbor, a few places and quickly hopped into the one with tablecloths. A drink at the bar, a decent, if unevenly paced meal, and a taxi home to figure out what to do tomorrow. Before bed we had settled on a ferry ride to Waiheke, an island with vineyards and wineries, about 40 minutes ride. Though we hadn't been able to snag a table, we knew each winery had a veranda that was no reservations. Checking the ferry website for sail times early the next AM, their special message of delays due to large crowds from the cruise ship turned us off enough to do a 180 and spend the day in Ponsonby, a gentrified neighborhood with boutiques and great eats.
Since the day was warm, but not too warm, and sunny, we walked the few kilometers and shopped before heading into our lunch at Prego. Now in every city there are always new hip places, some here today- gone tomorrow, and some that stay around. This one was a stayer, for 30 years. Lovely front tree shaded courtyard seating, nice wine, great pasta and pizza and even a real Caesar salad, unless you don't count the crispy fried prosciutto on top as real.
Ponsonby was indeed lined with lots of little boutiques to browse....well I browse and Steve stands or walks outside if he is not ready to sit in the man chair. Lots of NZ designers and some interesting clothes but nothing earth shattering or so different from what is everywhere.
Back at the hotel we got a bit of good news. AJ, the concierge, had snagged us a table for Wednesday night at one of the best places in town, The Grove, three toques, which here is like three Michelin stars or four Craig LaBan bells. So there may be one last food porny entry to the blog tomorrow.
I think what is amazing is that the biggest city has virtually nothing to see. They can count one small art gallery ( here that means museum), one cultural museum about the Maori and.....well.....that's it. You can bungee jump from the Sky City Tower, you can sail the harbor, you can do the hop on hop off bus that doesn't seem to go anywhere great. And between Xmas and mid January, you can eat ok but not great. You can walk down the 'best' street in the City, Queen Street, which looks a bit like Market St. in Philly with trash and bums but also has Dior and Prada and LV. Truthfully, I haven't seen anyone except a few Japanese tourists who look like they shop in any of those stores.
The other more interesting thing is how the composition and ethnicity changes as you go from South to North, which here is also cold to warm. In the South, it is a very European population. As you head up, at first you start to get a big Chinese/Korean mix, then add in the Maori and other Islanders and by the time you are in Auckland you find where the Indian population has immigrated. In fact, Auckland is the most Polynesian city in the world. We'll have to compare it for ourselves when we get to Hawaii in a couple of days.
Again, we are not sorry we are spending time here. It is a time to relax at a nice hotel, finally get that pedicure I needed at a spa that I know is clean, and recharge for the last part of our adventure. But speaking of pedicures......
I rarely read dumb travel tips that tell you what to bring or how to pack. And I never really try to give travel tips on this blog. But this morning after my pedicure, I had to wear sandals, of course. I only have one pair with me and they have to make due for going out and going to the beach. And they are not in the best condition but they need to get me through Hawaii. When we pit stopped at the hotel to do a quick change before a movie and dinner, I had to put on regular shoes.
I know it has been hours since my pedicure, but when you get white it tends to smudge if you put on shoes within 12 hours. So here is my tip. Be creative and mimic the salons at home by cutting up the hotel shower cap and wrapping your toes! I hope it will work.
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