#106 - Greetings and Greeters from Marseilles

An early call this morning, so early there was no time for a cup of cafe creme, before the 20 minute walk to the Bus Station to catch the number 50 bus to Marseilles. We had arranged to meet Patrick, our greeter, at 9:30 on the grand staircase at the Marseille train station. We spotted each other easily from previously exchanged photos and with a traditional kiss-kiss we were off. Patrick’s English was excellent and he was enthusiastic to show off the city where he was born and bred, though he lives just 30 minutes out of town now. And we were lucky to get him since he had retired from greeting a couple of years ago and we were his first tourists in his encore performance.  

We had read about Marseilles and knew it had cleaned itself up quite a bit from the gritty reputation of yesteryear. We found it to be a lovely city with lots to see. Patrick had the whole day planned including bus tickets in his pocket for us and a trip on the cross harbor ferry.

We walked through the North African neighborhood where the Tunisian, Algerian and Morroccan immigrants have settled. Usually quite lively, today most shops were closed for the end of Ramadan so we missed perhaps a taste of some North African food. But, we did get to the oldest store in Marseilles.  Now that might sound like a big ‘so what’ but it was amazing. Still in its original spot, though the neighborhood had changed a lot, it was room after room of interesting local everything. There were soaps made in Marseilles in every size imaginable, there was an entire counter of every lightbulb you ever wanted and couldn’t find. 

There were rolls and rolls omf fabric maybe 14” or 16”wide to buy and sew dishtowels or napkins. 

There were brushes that looked like scrub brushes but the bristles were short flat pieces of leather meant to be used to brush pet hair or lint off of clothes or furniture. I could have filled an entire suitcase of souveniers from this shop but all I bought was a tiny traditional olive oil soap.

We visited churches starting with the famous Notre Dame d’Gard with its ornate gold interior sitting high above Marseilles with 360 degree views of the city, the harbors, the forts, the boats and the islands....magnifique. 

We walked through Le Paniers, translated to The Basket, a charming neighborhood of artists and quiet places (squares). We visited the old ‘Poorhouse’ , Charite, where years ago thousands of people lived and now is an exhibition space. 

I could go on and describe everything we saw on our seven miles through Marseilles, but, as usual, the best part was spending the day with Patrick. He found a lovely spot for the lunch we shared, non touristy, where we dined on traditional Marseilles cuisine of razor clams, fish, octopus and local cheese for dessert. And yes our three course plats for 25 Euro also came with a 50cl bottle of rose...each!  

Steve’s Pulpo Lunch

Patrick was so easy to talk to. We had in common a love of boats and sea and fishing. We talked about different places we have traveled. We talked politics, carefully at first and then bluntly. We talked about the changes in Marseilles and the issues today with immigration from the prior French colonies in North Africa.

We talked about our kids and grandkids, our careers and how we both love Zihuatanejo, Mexico.

Patrick invited us to return to Marseilles and be his guest in the studio at his house and we reciprocated by inviting him to visit and stay in our casita in Santa Fe. And it may just happen because Patrick is planning to visit his brother in San Francisco next year and for sure Steve and I will be back in France again.  We ended the day at 5pm over a cold beer vowing to stay in touch and hopeful to meet again. 

  PS - If you get to Marseilles you must stop at the oldest store (established 1827), ‘Maison Empereur’. Plan an hour to peruse the merchandise and bring a big bag to buy a lot. And if you let me know when you are going I will give you a big list of things to bring back for me!